This is not so much a renaming as a Durbanization of it. Comrade Sutcliffe never ceases to justify his excesses without mentioning the word ‘African . . . ‘. So I shall do the same.
The Airport Decor
I think razor wire would make an appropriate South African statement. Any thoroughfare can be decorously supplied with copious amounts of it. Let’s not spare expense here - none of this cheap and nasty, namby pamby flatwrap stuff - only the coated, double spiked variety. We know how insecure and unsafe visitors feel when they anticipate, with only a little degree of glee, their impending sojourn here, so, reassure them as they step with trembling foot off the plane with a stunning panorama of glistening razor wire.
Both behind and in front of the razor wire are dozens of full size portraits of Michael Sutcliffe in an ANC T Shirt and hat, arm erect and fist clenched, a defiant bulldog expression contorting his features. A triumphant mien. African despots in less worthy parts of Africa would be jealous.
Wait!
What is it he’s holding in his fist?
It’s a road sign. It’s an old road sign. It reads ‘Manning Road’ with a red stripe across it.
Having been suitably reassured, our pax march with new found confidence towards the immigration counter - careful to keep to the travelators in case they touch the African 12,000 volt wires accompanying them at waist level. With minimal attrition, the planeload arrives at immigration.
Immigration
Now, as I understand it, when a visitor arrived at a Zulu kraal, there was a whole performance to welcome him. Here, the ceremony is called the ‘Marie Celeste Welcome’.
Not a soul in sight. Chicken Licken half eaten on the desks. Huge mugs of tea slowly cooling. Pencils half chewed. Monitors blinking aimlessly.
This African ceremony starts with a slowly increasing clamour from the passengers - those who are not on their first visit will know that the arrival of any plane coincides miraculously with the disappearance of the immigration staff. It’s the sort of thing that Arthur C. Clarke would talk about.
As the decibel level increases, a cleaner is spied on the other side, pushing a bucket. Noticing the agitated rabble she shouts in Zulu towards a distant door whereupon, after a suitable period, a lone, half-uniformed individual slowly makes his way to a desk.
Each passenger is interrogated at length.
‘What’s the purpose of your visit?’
‘Where’s your visa?’
‘Do you have any valuables about your person - especially jewellery, DVDs of Isidingo, dollars and cellphones? Which pockets are they in?’
(Pause to make quick cellphone call).
‘Where’s your Permanent Residence Permit? - do you know my grandfather was part of the Mau Mau?’
‘Where will you be staying?’ . . . ‘My brother will take you there - very reliable’.
etc. etc.
After 90 minutes, the planeload arrive in some numbers at Baggage Claim.
Baggage Claim
Well, not really.
It’s more like ‘You Think You’re Going to Have Baggage to Claim?’.
Like immigration, it’s deserted, just the low rumblings heard in similar baggage claims around the world. Except in this case it may well be nausea from the 30 metre leap after hitting the Michael Sutcliffe Commemorative Pothole in the runway.
There are anxious looks between passengers. The anxiety level increases. Mutterings turn to loud exclamations of concern. Looks turn to the window onto the apron in hesitant expectation. Cries of ‘Welcome to Durbs’ ring loud.
After 20 minutes, a solitary individual is seen approaching the apron side of Baggage Claim, on a solitary tractor towing a solitary trailer of luggage. Well, it appears to be luggage from the trail of assorted cases and bags in its wake.
He parks next to the carousel. Hope springs in 400 breasts.
He gets off and takes the bags off, one at a time, very deliberately to put on the carousel. Anxious eyes are cast to the end of the belt.
As the luggage makes an appearance, there is a degree of screaming, scrabbling and jostling only seen when an aid truck visits some famine stricken part of the planet.
What’s this? Every bag is labelled ‘SA286 HKG’. Hang on. This is not our luggage (meanwhile another single trolley with 30 bags has arrived).
Further investigation reveals that it’s not even the luggage from an arrived flight from Hong Kong but an outgoing flight.
Depression, melancholy and then anger surface as passengers realize that their luggage is on its final journey - to China. Miraculously however, fifty or so passengers have found their bags. Not on the carousel but behind janitory equipment next to the toilet.
Each one has a new security label not noticed when the bags were checked in. It reads ‘Inspected by Thatha Baggage Services (Pty. Ltd)‘ and marked carefully with a date stamp not an hour ago. In very large print at the bottom is written ‘Proud Supplier to SAA’.
Each bag is unexpectedly lighter than they remember at check in. Perhaps it’s the effect of the compulsory Valium given to passengers before arrival in Durban. Other airlines spray the cabin - inbound to Durban means sedatives and a funeral policy to go with the customs declaration.
Next blog: Customs