Bye Srinagar
Sonali trying to keep warm in the
I am typing this on my hands and knees in almost total darkness with a torch in my mouth. i have just settled up with mine host after the usual disagreement over the bill. It used to take a week for us to turn into snarling backpackers but this time just a day.
Tomorrow we catch a bus to Jammu at 7am and from there directly to amritsar. weve not booked.
I will add more when i can actually see the keys